Dermaplaning has emerged as a popular facial treatment, lauded for its ability to reveal smoother, brighter, and more radiant skin. Touted as a way to exfoliate and remove fine vellus hair, it promises a canvas primed for makeup application and skincare absorption. However, amidst the glowing reviews and before-and-after photos, a persistent question lingers in the minds of many: does dermaplaning make your face hairy? This concern, often rooted in a misunderstanding of hair growth cycles and the nature of the hair removed, can be a significant barrier for individuals considering this effective skincare procedure. Let’s delve deep into the science and reality of dermaplaning to address this common misconception and provide a comprehensive understanding of what you can expect.
Understanding Dermaplaning: The Procedure and Its Purpose
Before we tackle the hairy question, it’s crucial to understand what dermaplaning actually entails. Dermaplaning is a non-invasive cosmetic procedure that involves using a sterile surgical scalpel (a specialized blade) to gently exfoliate the outermost layer of dead skin cells from your face. Simultaneously, this process effectively removes the fine, vellus hair, often referred to as “peach fuzz,” that covers most of our faces.
The primary goals of dermaplaning are multifaceted:
- To exfoliate the skin, removing dull, dead skin cells that can accumulate and make the complexion appear tired and lackluster.
- To improve skin texture, leading to a smoother feel and a more refined appearance.
- To enhance skincare product absorption, as a smoother, less obstructed surface allows serums, moisturizers, and treatments to penetrate more effectively.
- To create a flawless canvas for makeup, reducing patchiness and ensuring a more even application.
- To remove vellus hair, which, while not typically considered “unwanted” in the same way as terminal hair, can sometimes catch light and contribute to a dull or shadowy appearance.
The tool used in dermaplaning is a sharp, flat blade held at a specific angle, typically around 45 degrees, to the skin. The esthetician or dermatologist will carefully stroke the blade across the face in short, controlled movements, lifting away dead skin cells and the fine hairs. It’s a manual exfoliation technique, meaning it relies on the physical action of the blade rather than chemical agents.
The Nature of Facial Hair: Vellus vs. Terminal Hair
To truly understand why dermaplaning doesn’t make your face hairier, we need to differentiate between the two main types of hair on our bodies: vellus hair and terminal hair.
Vellus hair is the fine, short, soft, and usually unpigmented hair that covers most of our bodies, especially during childhood. This is the “peach fuzz” that dermaplaning targets. Vellus hair is incredibly fine, with a diameter of less than 0.04 millimeters, and its purpose is often debated, with theories suggesting it helps with thermoregulation and sensory perception. It grows relatively quickly but is very delicate and easily removed.
Terminal hair, on the other hand, is the coarser, thicker, and often pigmented hair that grows on areas like the scalp, eyebrows, eyelashes, and pubic areas. In men, terminal hair also grows on the face (beard and mustache), chest, and limbs. Terminal hair is much thicker, with a diameter typically greater than 0.08 millimeters, and its growth cycle is generally longer and more robust.
The key distinction for dermaplaning is that it exclusively removes vellus hair. It does not affect the hair follicles responsible for terminal hair growth.
Debunking the Myth: Why Dermaplaning Doesn’t Cause Hairs to Grow Back Thicker or Darker
The fear that dermaplaning will lead to a more prominent beard or mustache stems from a misunderstanding of how hair grows and the effect of shaving or exfoliation on hair. This myth is largely analogous to the misconception that shaving your legs makes the hair grow back thicker.
Here’s why this fear is unfounded when it comes to dermaplaning:
Cutting Hair vs. Affecting the Follicle: Dermaplaning, like shaving, is a surface-level treatment. The blade cuts the hair off at the skin’s surface. It does not reach the hair follicle, which is located deeper within the dermis. The follicle is the living part of the hair, responsible for producing new hair. Since dermaplaning doesn’t interact with the follicle, it cannot stimulate it to produce thicker or darker hair.
The Appearance of Regrowth: When hair is cut with a blunt edge, as it is during dermaplaning or shaving, the tip of the hair shaft is left with a squared-off or blunt end, rather than the naturally tapered end it had before. When this blunted hair starts to grow back, it can feel coarser and appear thicker because of this blunt tip. This is an optical illusion and a tactile sensation, not a change in the hair’s actual thickness or growth rate.
Hair Growth Cycles: Hair on our face grows in distinct cycles: anagen (growth phase), catagen (transitional phase), and telogen (resting phase). Vellus hairs have a relatively short growth cycle. Dermaplaning removes hairs that are in various stages of their cycle. The hairs that grow back are simply those that were in the resting phase or have since entered the growth phase. They are the same hairs, just continuing their natural growth pattern.
No Hormonal Influence: The growth of terminal hair, particularly on the face in women, is often influenced by hormones. Dermaplaning has no effect on hormone levels or the biological processes that regulate terminal hair growth. Therefore, it cannot trigger the growth of new terminal hairs or alter the characteristics of existing ones.
The Scientific Evidence and Expert Opinions
Dermatologists and estheticians widely agree that dermaplaning does not cause increased hair growth. This consensus is based on scientific understanding of hair biology and extensive clinical experience.
One of the primary reasons for this myth’s persistence is its similarity to the effects of shaving. However, the skin on the face is different from other areas, and the vellus hair is also distinct from the coarser terminal hair.
Dr. Elizabeth Tanzi, a board-certified dermatologist, has stated, “Dermaplaning removes the very fine, light hair on the face, often referred to as peach fuzz. It does not alter the hair follicle, so the hair will not grow back thicker or darker.”
Similarly, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) acknowledges that removing facial hair through methods like dermaplaning or shaving does not lead to increased growth. Their position is that hair grows from the follicle beneath the skin, and surface removal does not stimulate the follicle.
What You Actually Experience After Dermaplaning
Instead of a suddenly hairy face, individuals typically experience a range of positive outcomes after dermaplaning:
- Smoother Skin: The immediate sensation is one of incredibly smooth skin, free from the slight texture that vellus hair can create.
- Brighter Complexion: With dead skin cells removed, the skin appears more luminous and radiant.
- Improved Makeup Application: Foundation and other makeup glide on effortlessly and sit more evenly, without catching on fine hairs.
- Enhanced Skincare Efficacy: Serums and treatments penetrate more deeply, potentially leading to better results.
- Temporary Hair Removal: The vellus hair removed will eventually grow back, just as it did before the treatment. For most people, this regrowth is subtle and gradual, taking a few weeks.
The hair that grows back will be the same type of vellus hair that was removed. It will not be coarser, thicker, or darker. The regrowth will be at its natural rate, and the hair will have its naturally tapered ends.
Comparing Dermaplaning to Other Hair Removal Methods
It’s helpful to contrast dermaplaning with methods that do aim to remove hair from the follicle or alter its growth:
- Waxing and Epilation: These methods remove hair from the root. Over time, with consistent waxing, some individuals may notice that terminal hair grows back finer and sparser. This is because the repeated removal from the follicle can sometimes damage it. However, this process is entirely different from dermaplaning.
- Laser Hair Removal and Electrolysis: These are permanent hair reduction methods that target and damage the hair follicle to prevent or significantly reduce future hair growth. Dermaplaning has no such impact.
- Shaving: As discussed, shaving cuts hair at the surface. The sensation of coarser regrowth is due to the blunt tip, not a change in the follicle.
Dermaplaning is essentially a superficial shave of the vellus hair, but its primary function is exfoliation. The removal of hair is a beneficial side effect that contributes to the overall improved skin appearance.
Who is a Good Candidate for Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is suitable for most skin types, including those with:
- Dull skin
- Dry or flaky skin
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Acne scarring (mild)
- Uneven skin texture
- Those seeking improved makeup application
However, it’s important to note that dermaplaning is not recommended for individuals with:
- Active acne breakouts (the blade can spread bacteria)
- Sunburn or open wounds
- Certain inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or rosacea in an active flare-up
- A history of keloid scarring
A professional consultation with a dermatologist or licensed esthetician is crucial to determine if dermaplaning is the right treatment for your skin concerns and to ensure it’s performed safely and effectively.
The Professional vs. At-Home Approach
While at-home dermaplaning tools are available, performing the procedure professionally is highly recommended, especially for your first few treatments. A skilled professional has the expertise to:
- Use the correct angle and pressure with the blade.
- Identify contraindications and assess your skin’s suitability.
- Perform the treatment safely, minimizing the risk of nicks, cuts, or infection.
- Provide proper pre- and post-treatment care advice.
The concern about making your face hairier is less likely to arise with professional treatments, as they are performed with precision and a deep understanding of skin and hair physiology.
Addressing the Fear: What to Do if You’re Still Concerned
If you are still hesitant due to the fear of increased hair growth, consider the following:
- Educate Yourself: Understand the difference between vellus and terminal hair and how hair follicles function.
- Consult a Professional: Discuss your concerns openly with a dermatologist or experienced esthetician. They can explain the procedure in detail and reassure you based on their expertise.
- Start Gradually: If you are very concerned, you might consider only dermaplaning specific areas of your face initially, or opting for less frequent treatments to see how your skin responds.
- Focus on the Benefits: Remind yourself of the numerous advantages of dermaplaning, such as smoother, brighter skin and improved product absorption, which are well-documented and highly sought after.
The overwhelming evidence and expert consensus indicate that dermaplaning does not make your face hairy. The perceived increase in hairiness is a common myth based on an optical illusion and a misunderstanding of hair growth. By understanding the science behind the procedure and the nature of facial hair, you can confidently explore dermaplaning as a valuable tool for achieving a more radiant and smooth complexion.
In conclusion, the question of whether dermaplaning makes your face hairy can be definitively answered: No, it does not. The fine hairs removed are vellus hairs, and the process of cutting them at the skin’s surface does not stimulate the hair follicle to produce thicker, darker, or more abundant hair. Instead, you can expect to enjoy the many benefits of exfoliation and a smoother, brighter, and more receptive skin surface.
Does dermaplaning make your face hairier?
No, dermaplaning does not make your facial hair grow back thicker, darker, or faster. This is a common misconception, often stemming from the way hair is cut with a blade. When you shave or dermaplane, you are cutting the hair shaft at its thickest point, which is the surface. This creates a blunt edge.
When the hair grows back, it feels coarser to the touch because you are feeling the blunt end of the hair shaft rather than the tapered, natural end. However, the hair follicle itself is unaffected by dermaplaning, meaning it does not stimulate increased hair production or alter the hair’s natural growth cycle. The hair will eventually grow back to its original state and texture.
What is dermaplaning, and how does it work?
Dermaplaning is a cosmetic procedure that involves using a sterile, surgical-grade scalpel or a specialized dermaplaning tool to gently exfoliate the surface of your skin. This process effectively removes dead skin cells, debris, and fine vellus hair, commonly known as peach fuzz, from your face. The tool is held at a precise angle and is moved across the skin in controlled strokes.
The exfoliation aspect of dermaplaning helps to reveal smoother, brighter skin by unclogging pores and removing dull surface cells. The removal of vellus hair, while a byproduct, is also beneficial as it can create a more even complexion and improve makeup application by providing a smoother canvas.
What kind of hair does dermaplaning remove?
Dermaplaning primarily removes vellus hair, which are the short, fine, and lightly pigmented hairs that cover most of your body and face. These are often referred to as “peach fuzz.” It does not affect terminal hairs, which are the thicker, darker, and coarser hairs found in areas like the eyebrows, beard, or pubic region.
The dermaplaning tool is designed to glide over the skin and lift away these fine hairs along with dead skin cells. The texture and thickness of terminal hairs are genetically determined and controlled by hormones, neither of which are influenced by the superficial removal of vellus hair.
Is dermaplaning suitable for all skin types?
While dermaplaning is generally safe for most skin types, it’s not a one-size-fits-all treatment. Individuals with active acne, open wounds, sunburn, or very sensitive skin should avoid dermaplaning or consult with a dermatologist first. The procedure involves physical exfoliation, which can irritate inflamed or compromised skin.
For individuals with dry or sensitive skin, it’s crucial to ensure proper hydration and a gentle aftercare routine. A professional esthetician or dermatologist can assess your skin type and concerns to determine if dermaplaning is the right choice for you and advise on any necessary precautions or modifications.
What are the benefits of dermaplaning besides hair removal?
Beyond the removal of vellus hair, dermaplaning offers significant skincare benefits. The exfoliation process effectively removes dead skin cells, which can accumulate and lead to a dull complexion, clogged pores, and breakouts. This removal promotes cell turnover, revealing fresher, more radiant skin underneath.
Furthermore, dermaplaning can improve the efficacy of your skincare products by allowing them to penetrate the skin more deeply and effectively. It also helps to soften the appearance of fine lines and acne scars over time, leading to a smoother and more refined skin texture.
How often should I get dermaplaning done?
The recommended frequency for dermaplaning typically ranges from every 3 to 4 weeks. This aligns with the skin’s natural regeneration cycle, which is approximately 28 days. Getting dermaplaning too frequently can lead to over-exfoliation and potential skin irritation or sensitivity.
However, the ideal frequency can vary depending on individual skin type, concerns, and how your skin responds to the treatment. Consulting with a qualified skincare professional is the best way to determine the optimal schedule for your specific needs and to ensure you are maintaining healthy, balanced skin.
Will I see immediate results after dermaplaning?
Yes, you can expect to see immediate results after a dermaplaning session. The most noticeable outcome is smoother, softer skin due to the removal of dead skin cells and vellus hair. Your complexion will appear brighter and more radiant, and makeup will likely apply more evenly and smoothly.
These initial results are primarily due to the physical exfoliation and hair removal. The deeper benefits, such as improved skin texture and reduction in the appearance of fine lines or mild scarring, may become more apparent with consistent treatments over time as cell turnover is encouraged.